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Monday, November 12, 2012

Asheville and Great Smoky Mountains Trip, Days 3 and 4: In which there are Scandals and Elk, but not elk scandals.


Great Smoky Mountain
Park Sign
Crossing the Threshhold

Saturday, September 29
Saturday was the day of the wedding, and the hotel was a-flutter with activity. Kate and I jumped out early for breakfast at a greasy-spoon type diner where I went for the Southern breakfast trifecta: Biscuits, grits and gravy (also, eggs, cheese and sausage, etc.). We had some down time at the hotel, but later met Kate’s family for lunch at a vegetarian restaurant[i] nearby.

Asheville
LoveSouthern Breakfast

Ominous clouds swallowed the valleys as we drove out to the arboretum for the ceremony, and eventually cut loose with a torrent of rain[ii]. Glum faces pressed against the windows in the arboretum building as water cascaded from the heavens. The photographer and I watched it and I saw a look of grim determination cross her face. She finally turned to me and said something like, “I think we can do it. I’m going to go tell them they’re getting married outside.”. Miraculously, as if she was Moses parting the waters, the rain came to a halt and the sun beamed through the clouds. She and I rushed out with the wedding party to get pictures before the ceremony. The location was fantasic, it was hard to get a bad picture there among the fall colors. I videoed frantically[iii] while trying to stay out of her way, and corralled wedding party members for an endless progression of pictures in every potential combination[iv]

The ceremony went off without a hitch[v]. It was short and sweet, officiated by a friend of the bride and groom who did a fantastic job. When one of the processional/recessional/etc songs played during the ceremony is by Sufjan Stevens, you know you’re at the cool kids’ wedding. After it was all said and done, the wedding party rushed to get a couple more shots as the clouds closed in again. Everyone else move to the patio for drinks and appetizers while I subjected everyone to the age old videographer torture of “hey, say something on camera for the bride and groom”. Boy, that sure looked to be annoying from the other side of the camera. At the reception, we sat with some of Kate’s relatives. Never one to shy away from dancing at weddings[vi], I dragged Kate and various relatives out on the floor until we shut the place down.

Later in the evening, most of the younger crowd[vii] headed to the bar attached to the hotel for an impromptu after-party that eventually culminated in a march across Asheville to an afterhours gay bar called Scandals. What was a thriving dance floor when we arrived, emptied by the time we shut the place down at 3 AM[viii]. One of my favorite memories of the day was of three diminutive latino fellows holding hands and dancing around the bride like a maypole.

Wedding Afterparty Stop
1
My sole wedding picture from the day, our first afterparty stop. Probably about 1 AM. No pictures from Scandals. What happens at Scandals stays at Scandals. Ironically enough.

Sunday, 9/30
The next morning was a lazy one, as we all packed up and headed out to the bride’s parent’s house[ix] for a brunch. As the day grew shorter, Kate and I said our goodbyes to family and friends and started out for the Smokeys and the second phase of the trip.

Geenan's
House
The beautiful Geenan home. Want.

We ended up getting a later start than I had planned[x], but grabbed some quick groceries from the local store where I marveled at how the view in the area seems to be taken for granted. The view from the vast parking lot was sweeping, of a village nestled in overlapping ridges. This sort of view would generate wall to wall high-priced homes anywhere else, but here…just a parking lot. For their sake, I hope it remains so.

Parking Lot
Vista
Come enjoy mind-blowing views from our…discount supermarket parking lot.

We made our way west to Cherokee, the southern gateway to the park. Cherokee, aptly named as it was on an actual Cherokee reservation, was an unfortunate, unbroken, and seemingly unending onslaught of every 50’s motor lodge/Native American/Appalachian stereotype combined into one dense conglomeration of vintage motels, gift shops, and attractions. If the “Indian” in the old commercial[xi] shed a tear over some trash, he must have practically bawled over the insanity of Cherokee.

Cherokee
ReservationCherokee,
NCPink Motel,
Cherokee
Cherokee Reservation, Cherokee Streetscape, Tourist Motels – Cherokee.

The transition to the Park was almost jarring, as we abruptly left wall to wall souvenir stands and entered cool, dark forest. We stopped for a few obligatory pictures with the Park sign before resuming our race against the dying light. As we approached the visitor’s center, we came across a large herd of Elk moving across an open field. I stopped and chatted with a park volunteer for a while, before we reluctantly left the herd and headed for the campground. We got in after dark and in a light rain, making setting up camp less than thrilling[xii]. However, with a dry tent awaiting us, a gurgling brook across the street, and a belly full of chili from the camp stove later, it ended up being a good start to the Smokeys experience.

Great Smoky Mountain
Park SignElk
Herd
Elk
Herd
Park Sign, Elk, Elk Herd

NOTES



[i] While the food was pretty great, it was one of those places that was pretty militantly vegetarian/vegan. I was scared to think fondly of the steak from the night before, lest I trip what I can only assume are the multiple anti-meat warding spells cast on the place.
[ii] Somewhere, Alanis’s irony sense was tingling.
[iii] I was pretty nervous about videoing the wedding; I was using gear I’d never worked with, and had not had the chance to really scout the location, or talk with the photographer about placement, etc.  not to mention, the last time I videoed anything more seriously than with my cell phone, I was in High school and the camera ran on VHS and weighed 30 pounds. I was slightly unprepared.  It ended up being a lot of fun, but I’m guessing the final product left a bit to be desired.
[iv] I think somewhere, there is a picture of me, the caterer, and someone’s grandmother. We were kind of making it up as we went by the end of 47 shot combinations of wedding part family and friends.
[v] Other than the ushering. I and the officiant’s partner had been asked to usher. A lack of chairs, initially, some general confusion about where to enter an outdoor area with multiple entrances, and some general invitations to just sit where you could find a seat negated any impact of our ushering. I hid behind the video camera and tried to look busy so no one would notice my usher fail. Sorry Cliff, you made a valiant effort, but the odds were stacked against usJ
[vi] Some of you may have memories of me dancing from your own weddings. Try not to shudder in horror at them too noticeably.
[vii] Including the bride and groom who put in an IMPRESSIVE showing. I do not remember having that much energy my wedding day. They hung with us to the bitter end.
[viii] I’ll let folks other than myself speculate whether the attrition of regulars over the course of the evening was due to the late hour, or the fact that their dance floor was invaded by a raucous wedding party complete with be-gowned bride.
[ix] Which was fantastic, set in the foothills of the surrounding mountains, with a wide sweeping porch and a terraced hillside behind.
[x] Never easy to leave a relaxing event with family and friends. Even less so when headed into a couple days of camping in what was promising to be rainy conditions.
[xi] the fellow who played the “Indian” in that commercial was Italian, not Native American (he did claim Cherokee/Cree ancestry, but it was made up). However, he was later recognized  for his contributions by various Native American groups.
[xii] Though it did have its highlights. We were the only ones not in an RV, and I got to meet our next door neighbor as he walked his dog. Nice guy from Jersey who was having trouble understanding why we would want to tent in this weather. There were also a fairly large number of insects in the bathrooms. While this may have unnerved some, I was pretty happy spending some time looking for new species.  

Asheville and Great Smoky Mountains National Park Trip Day 2: A hike in the Devil's Courthouse

Friday’s whirlwind of activities was a chaotic counterpoint to the previous day’s relaxed introduction to the Asheville scene. The powers that be had scheduled an early morning hike along the Blue Ridge Parkway for family and friends. I got up and out early to try to catch some good light on the iconic views of overlapping ridgelines along the parkway. Unfortunately, the light beat me and by the time I got out the sun was fairly high above the horizon[i]. Still, there were some fantastic views to be had even if the photos were a wash.

Blue Ridge Parkway
Vista
Blue Ridge
Parkway!Monarch on Unidentified
Wildflower
Blue Ridge Parkway
Vista
Blue Ridge Parkway Vista, Driving onto the Parkway!, Monarch, Morning Parkway Vista

The rest of the group slowly trickled into the meeting location parking lot over the course of the next few hours. There was a frenzy of welcomes and introductions among the about 20 people heading out. We made lunches from the back of a truck laden with an amazing amount of baked goods, deli fixings, etc, and then drove out to a trail near Devil’s Courthouse. There were some experienced hikers, some weekenders, and a lot of kids, so we didn’t hike all that far. A short jaunt through the woods and up a ridge left us with 360 degree views of the surrounding country. Some of us continued on to a summit a little farther past the main group, but we all eventually settled down to eat a lunch in the high meadow, surrounded by a cloud of butterflies taking advantage of the fields of late blooming wildflowers. Most of the crowd headed home to prepare for the rehearsal, but my father in law and I made an additional short hike up to the top of Devil’s Courthouse.

Devil's Courthouse
VistaBlue Ridge Parkway
Vista
Blue Ridge Parkway Hike
VistaFall
Color
Hiking Party
(B&W)Blue Ridge Parkway Hike
Vista
Devil’s Courthouse Vista, Blue Ridge Parkway Vista, Hike Vista, Fall Color, Hiking Party, Parkway Hike Vista

The pleasant sojourns of the morning gave way to the rehearsal preparations of the afternoon[ii]. The ceremony was to be held, outside, at an arboretum near Asheville. As we arrived, saurian roars ripped through the air (apparently it was a dinosaur exhibit week at the arboretum[iii]). I was serving as makeshift videographer for the event, so I spent a bit of my time in a panic trying to figure out good angles and microphone distances. After places were placed, roles rolled, and machinations machinated, the group headed back to Asheville for the rehearsal dinner. It was a really nice affair, in the back room of a restaurant. They had a slideshow of pictures of the couple at various life stages and family and friends, etc. Toasts were made, wine was drunk, gifts were given, and it all worked out very nicely. For all the pomp and circumstance of the reception, I really think I like intimate rehearsal dinners better. 

NOTES


[i] We flatlanders have to adjust to the fact that light in mountainous areas is usually well above the horizon ere it reaches into the valleys. I have missed a lot of great shots due to this principle.
[ii] Sadly, I have few pictures from this time frame all the way through the wedding because I was trusted with my brother in law’s beautiful Canon 5d Mark II to video the proceedings.  I’m sure there are a couple nice pictures I might add later. I have no comment that about the potential existence of video showing me dancing lkike I was 20 years younger. Let’s all pretend that isn’t a thing that might have happened.
[iii] Because, as we all know, dinosaurs are, phylogenetically speaking, in the same clade as trees. 

Asheville and Great Smoky Mountains trip, Day 1: In which I sin against Texas.


Morning on the Blue
Ridge Parkway, Asheville
Morning on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Asheville

I have started to trend toward vacations where I see old friends or family and then visit a National Park. It’s not completely purposeful[i]; it’s just worked out that way recently. We had the great pleasure of seeing my old friends the Gibsons and my Uncle Dave and Aunt Shelley on our Yosemite trip, we jaunted out to see friends and family in Seattle on our way to Rainier, and just recently I got to catch up with my friend Joel on this, our recent trip to Asheville and the Great Smoky[ii] Mountains National Park. I know my wife would probably like a little more “Oh look, they have a bar right on the beach” and a little less “hey, is the tent supposed to be this wet?”. However, given that the past couple trips have been based on her family’s events, I think we have settled into a grudging karmic balance. It makes for odd packing[iii], but I think I’ve found my niche. I could easily spend the rest of my life wandering our Nation’s parks and dropping in on friends and family[iv].

Asheville Area from the
Air
Asheville Area from the Air

Asheville was our jumping off point for our early October trip. Kate’s brother Dave and his lovely fiancé, now wife, Jessica were getting married in Asheville, and Kate was part of the wedding party[v]. I have a lot of friends who have spoken highly of Asheville, but I’d never been. When I heard that was where they were holding the wedding, I was fairly excited. I think my wife was as well, until she saw me scrolling the map slightly westward to the Great Smoky Mountains.
We flew into Asheville through Charlotte, where I blasphemed against all that is Texan-and-therefore-holiest-of-the-holy[vi] by sampling North Carolinian barbeque. I could digress here for some time to speak of the finer points of regional barbeque production and rivalry. Suffice it to say that the middle east has seen less sectarian conflict than occurs in discussions of proper barbeque technique[vii]. I could picture my Texas colleagues recoiling in horror from the North Carolina pulled pork sandwich I selected. Not only did it have plenty of sauce, but THEY PUT THE COLE SLAW RIGHT ON TOP OF THE SANDWICH[viii]. That being said? It was pretty damn good. It was accompanied by a long-coveted Yuengling[ix], which may have affected my judgment to some degree.
Airport
Food!
Why can’t we all just get along??

After a ludicrously short flight from Charlotte to Asheville[x], we picked up our rental at the airport[xi], picked up some supplies at REI[xii], and headed into town. I’m not sure what I expected Asheville to be. From all the descriptions from friends, I had expected neverending music in the streets, lush green parks, moonshine flowing in the streams, etc[xiii]. Asheville, however, was a lot more historic than I expected. There was a lot of mixed architecture, a reproduction of the Flat Iron building in NYC right across the street, and even an old F.W. Woolworths building around the corner. I think I had expected more of a Charleston/Atlanta feel, and it ended up feeling a bit more like an Ithaca/Rochester, but with a Seattle/Portland obsession with local businesses[xiv]. Our hotel was on the national registry of historic hotels[xv], and greeted us with a glass of champagne and elevators that still called out the floors from its old department store days[xvi].

F.W.
WoolworthsAsheville
Haywood Park
HotelHotel
Room
Flat Iron Building,
Asheville
Old FW Woolworths Building, Asheville street, Historic Haywood Park Hotel, Old school hotel room, Flat Iron Building.

After a quick settling in to our fairly ludicrously large hotel room, we met up with Kate’s parents for a bite to eat at a great little Italian place[xvii] down the street. It was a nice chance to catch up and relax before the whirlwind of wedding activities kicked off the next day.

NOTES


[i] Though to be honest, I have rated you all based, in part, on your proximity to the nearest National Park or other natural point of interest.  You may want to consider moving to improve your score. 
[ii] Yes, Smoky, not Smokey. That’s some authentic frontier gibberish at play right there.
[iii] Trips in which you bring both a dress fedora and also ranger cord are pretty much guaranteed to be awesome.
[iv] This is yet another addition to my “Why is this not an actual job” list. Right below “Social Worker for Dangerously Under-Photographed Lingerie Models”.
[v] From all of the weddings I have been to, I think I have most enjoyed the “spouse-of-wedding-party-member-who-is-not -in-the-wedding-party-himself” role.  You get backstage access without having to be in all the photos and other wedding rituals. It’s the wedding sweet spot.
[vi] Our Aggie, who art in College Station, mesquite-smoked be thy Brisket…
[vii] Texas is a dry brisket-centric with an emphasis on perfect smoking. Sauce is added, almost reluctantly, as an afterthought. Texans take great pride in their smoking capacity. As I mentioned before here, I have known Texans with trailer-towed smokers valued far beyond the vehicle towing them (or often, the yearly salary of the tower). Contrasted with Kansas City who occasionally adds some meat to their barbeque soup, or New York who considers grilling hot dogs and hamburgers “barbequeing”, etc. And never the twain shall meet (meat?).
[viii] For lack, I guess, of a local church door on which to nail it, if one wanted to visualize the potential impact of this bold move.
[ix] My favorite domestic beer from my Delaware days, which is sold pretty much everywhere except Texas because we hate America and want to be unhappy, apparently.  
[x] Seriously, the captain’s announcement went something like “Welcome on board flight 1040 to Asheville. Please refrain from using electronic devices while we’re in the ai…oh, wait, we’re already here. Welcome to Asheville.”
[xi] I am hard pressed to call the Asheville airport an airport in the strictest sense. It is an airport in the same sense that a kid’s lemonade stand is a “business”…or Rhode Island is a “state”…or Donald Trump is “demonstrably sane”. Yes, technically these are all true statements, but only if you’re being very, very generous in your terminology. Asheville is an airport in that they have a “plane” and “some baggage” and “a terminal” and once in a while, “a passenger.”
[xii] For some reason the airlines frown on carrying compressed cans of canister stove fuel in one’s carryon.
[xiii] In all fairness, an appreciable number of these acquaintances may or may not have inhaled, thus influencing the descriptions given.
[xiv] And hipsters. Unfortunately.
[xv] Though not for anything of interest…it used to be a couple old department stores. Its tie to the past mostly consisted of incredibly creepy displays of mannequins in period dress. That being said, it was a pretty nice place. Still, not as cool as The Menger, my favorite hotel on the Registry, which I hit up when we’re in San Antonio (a story still to be blogged.)
[xvi] We were staying in the children’s clothing floor, if memory serves. There were a pair of the creepy mannequins looking directly at you as you exited the elevator. Danny isn’t here, Mrs. Torrence.
[xvii] It was a tenuous mix of trendy foody and authentic Italian. We had to ask the waiter about half the words on the page. However, the food was fantastic, so I’ll give them the “earnest food enthusiast venue” benmefit of the doubt, over the “overly self-righteous foody house of pretension” they were flirting with getting stuck with. I’m sure they’re all very relieved to have done so well in my mental rankings that they’re not remotely aware of whatsoever. 

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Winter Colors

Evening Flocks
Evening Flocks

Winter comes softly to the Gulf Coast. We don't have chilling nor'easters, and we never wake to a world encapsulated in white. The temperature may gradually get to jacket weather, but it does so only reluctantly. The real harbinger of the season is the subtle changes in the world's color(1).

Houston winters bring with them clear skies that glow in color at dawn and sunset; vast skies that blaze along the horizon only to slowly burn down to the navy of the night sky. The vibrant greens of the prairie shift to the  tans and grey of old vegetation. Late blooming beggars-tick and other wildflowers burst in a desperately brief last flash of summer color.

This is not intended to be a flowery love letter to winter on the upper Gulf Coast. It is, I guess, a recognition that even when it's subtle, no place can wholly resist the change of seasons. Here are a few pictures from the advent of winter, taken at Brazos Bend State Park and other Houston locations.

Winter Colors
Winter Sky


Remnants
Remnants

IMGP9273-2
Snag and Sky


Winter Grasses
Winter Grasses

Prairie
Prairie

IMGP9208-3IMGP9221-2
IMGP9215-2IMGP9212-2
American Lotus, Dead Stalks



 Julia Butterfly
Julia Butterfly on Beggars-tick (Bidens)


Unidentified Dragonfly
Late Dragonfly on Winter Grasses

Water Hyacinth
Water Hyacinth in Winter Evening Light

Evening Flocks
Evening Flocks

Evening Flocks
Evening Flocks Abstract

IMGP9276-3
Arrow in the Water


NOTES

(1) - I've posted on this before, but it's the one time in the year here where we can actually feel the pace of life reflected in the world around us, so it gets another. 

Monday, November 5, 2012

Road Oddities

Houston loves its cars. I mean, LOVES its cars. We give a nominal nod to pedestrians and mass transit, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the car[i]. Our freeways are massive; my commute to work, at times, is on a freeway 26 lanes wide[ii]. We love our cars so much, we are even driven to take glamour pictures of them against Texas backdrops.

Mazda3 glamour
shot
Scene from “Mazda 3 Goes to the Beach!”.

The point is that car ownership in Texas has a certain distinct flavor. That flavor carries over to their vanity plates and various bumper adornments. Get enough rambunctious Texans, all driving in the same place, and you’re guaranteed a good sampling of Texas-style oddity will ensue.  Here are a few of my favorite examples, ranging from the predictable angry politics of the anonymous bumper to the downright oddness of personalized license plates that just don’t have enough letters to get the intended message across.

The Political: 

Wow.
“Impeach Obama”.  Sadly, I see a lot of these. This is the car equivalent of internet comment pages. However, if this seems boringly predictable to those of you jaded by the current mad dog political hooplah, then let me show you how we do angry politics in Texas, where the next rational step is….

2012-10-29_07-36-48_216
“Secede”. One of the endearing Texas urban legends that seems to have permeated even some elements of the education system is the myth that Texas retained the right to unilaterally secede from the Union. This is demonstrably not the case (even if it weren’t for Texas v. White), but it is a doggedly pervasive fiction[iii]. Our governor even hints at it from time to time. And it gets tossed around a lot, like: “I don’t like the President, Texas should secede!”, or “We don’t like the liberals in the northeast, Texas should secede!”, or “It’s Tuesday, Texas should secede!”

Contradiction
However, sometimes the mix of urban existence and staunch conservative principles gets a wee bit confused. Here we have bumper stickers for a variety of Tea Party/far right candidates and declarations of conservative principles…..on a Prius. Sometime after that I swear I saw a massive SUV with a bumper sticker promoting awareness of global warming.

The Odd Choices:
Sometimes you just have to wonder.
IMGP9166-3
“Audi r-8”.  Tautology edition.

Versa with Consular
Plates
“Consular Plates” …on a Versa. I get it...not every nation can afford a Town Car for its embassy, but a Versa? If we are in a world where this is a thing, as the kids say, I have to wonder whether there are also little black consular Smartcars running about. I applaud their fuel efficiency at the cost of geopolitical reputation.

2012-04-20_22-05-55_720
Farmer Truck + Blinged out rims = awesome. Reppin’ the back 40.

The Indecipherable:
I first started paying attention to these after I came to a stop behind a car (not pictured) with the license plate OIL BNR. Oil Burner? Oil Boner? Some horrible combination thereof? These are the indecipherable vanity plates of Houston suburbia, and my conjecture on potential meanings.
2012-10-22
18.11.01
“TDDIVA” plate on a Masserati. Touch Down Diva?  (Perhaps the girlfriend of an NFL player, or a player himself secure in his masculinity?) Totally Disco Diva?  (living in the past?) Touch ‘da Diver ? (a lonely SCUBA enthusiast? )

Punjab
Tan?
“Punjtan”  Punjab tan?  Punjabistan (an east Pakistani/North Indian separatist enthusiast)?

2012-10-18
18.36.13-2
“OTZK” – Over Thirty Zebra Kills (a successful safari)? , Obviously, the Zombies Kill! (a cautionary message)? , Oats, ‘kay? (lolspeak demands from a hungry horse)?

Reo
Feo
“RFEO 64” – Ok, this last one is cheating a bit, since I now know the answer, but it was just an awesome freeway find. Driving outside of San Antonio, we were passed by this fantastic convertible with two men in dark suits in the front, and a gentleman dressed like the Pope riding in back. A placard on the side had religious looking symbols and indecipherable script and the plate simple said REO FEO. A little bit of exhaustive research[iv] later, and the answer became clear, if not still a little wacky to see cruising down the highway. This gentleman is the Rey Feo…the “Ugly King”[v] of the time honored tradition of Fiesta in San Antonio, which dates to 1891 and includes a court of 9 “kings and queens”. It’s a really big deal in San Antonio..like Carnival in Brazil, or Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Apparently he gets to be driven around in a big car (hence, the '64).

NOTES



[i] ..and the truck….and the SUV….
[ii] This is not an exaggeration…if anything, this is an understatement, as it doesn’t include some entrance ramps/turn lanes, etc. This is just straight up drivin’ lanes.
[iii] I have tried, and failed utterly, to convince some native Texan friends of this. I’m pretty sure I’m now on a watch list for trying. Between this and my Obama lawn sign, I fully expect to be repatriated to NY soon.
[iv] Read: I Googled it.
[v] If Google translate can be trusted